When I first started taking 3D pictures, I used a miniature Pentax camera that used 110 film. It was cute, but the prints came out a little out of focus. I used the side step (Cha Cha) method and did a lot of photo editing to get rid of all the unwanted movement. I then bought the first one of the Minoltas above. I still took Cha-Cha photos until I got tired of editing and being disappointed by the good pictures that didn't work in 3D because of the movement. I gave up when I was out at the coast trying to synchronize my shutter with the waves. (don't try it -- it doesn't work).
I decided to take the risk and opened up the back of the camera and found where to hook the wires for an external switch so I could use a single push button to trigger two cameras. (when one does such a thing, it's nice to know a little about electronics) As you can see, it worked and I immediately went and bought the second Minolta. I built a quick bar, with the handle from an old joy-stick and boy! was it gratifying to take a picture of a big engine running about 300 RPM and see the flywheel stopped in motion and in 3D!
The first bar I made was a bit to week. It worked fine when the cameras were in close, but when the cameras were out at the ends, the bar bent enough to cause the pictures to be twisted (just enough to always have to fix the alignment).
As you can see from the close up view, I made the bar so I can space the cameras apart about 12". Many purest stereo photographers don't go for hyper stereo with the cameras further apart than 2.5", but I like to force some depth perception on a few of the pictures that are further away. I always keep in mind the 1/30 rule and try to not have anything in the near field of the picture. The other night, I took some night pictures of Portland from across the Willamette river. Even the ones I took at 12" were real flat and the best was the one I took about 15 feet apart. The buildings all stood in line one behind the other and the effect was great. (but I get off the subject) This bar is made of an aluminum extrusion and quite sturdy. All I have to do is line the photos against each other and scan them in. They almost always come out right on for alignment.
The two cameras have separate zoom adjustments. I just zoom the first one to frame the picture and put the other on the same zoom number and most of the time it works fine. I can, if needed expand or reduce one of the pictures with my photo editing software when I need to.
These cameras are all automatic, which most of the time is great. I do miss, however, having the ability to do special effects one can do with a manual camera. I have all to often, had one camera focused great and the other not focused. I guessed it was because the cameras weren't pointed at the exact same image detail and the auto focus got mixed up. Of course if you have manual cameras there is nothing but yourself to blame.
I've tried a digital camera, and as long as the resolution is high enough it seemed to be the way to go. I think I need at least 1024 X 768 pixels but at today's prices, I can't afford 2 of then.
Send me a note if you like.dwaco@gte.net
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