SAN AGUSTINE AND TIERRADENTRO


San Agustín, a village situated on the flanks of the Colombian Massif to the south of the department of Huila, is one of the most important archaeological sites in the country. This mountainous region, a mixture of hills and deep canyons, was inhabited many centuries ago by peoples of various cultures, which left for posterity numerous archaeological ruins, notably statues, stone carvings, monolithic sarcophagi and petroglyphs with human, animal and fantasy representations. Not a great deal is known about the Agustinian cultures but it is known that they practised complex forms of worship, particularly funeral rites. They were agricultural communities, with an economy based on corn and complemented by root vegetables and fruits, hunting and fishing. They possessed advanced ceramic techniques.


You reach San Agustín by road from Nieva, passing through Pitalito. The archaeological sites are dispersed in an area of some 200 square miles around the villages of San Agustín and San José de Isnos. To reach some of them it is necessary to go by jeep or on horseback.

 


THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK

The principal collection of statues is to be found in the Archaeological Park of San Agustín, almost two miles from the village; it is open everyday between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. The park has a museum and library specializing in archaeological subjects related to the region. You can walk through the park which includes the Wood of Statues, a complex known as Mesitas A, B, C and D, Lavapatas Spring and Lavapatas Heights.


The Wood of Statues is a path along which the visitor can appreciate 35 statues of different origins, sized and styles that, according to the anthropologist Reichel-Dolmatoff, have been classified as archaic, naturalistic, expressionist and abstract. The Mesitas are broad esplanades which once served as living quarters.

OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST

Another archaeological site worth mentioning is El Alto de los Idolos, a horseshoe-shaped, artificial esplanade about 16 miles by road from San Agustín. Other interesting sites in the region include El Tablón, La Chaquira, La Pelota, Obando, El Jabón, El Alto de las Piedras, El Alto de las Guacas, El Mortiño, Quebradillas, Quinchana, La Parada, Naranjos and Lavaderos.


But in addition to the region's archaeological importance, it is an extraordinarily beautiful area, and the ideal is to combine archaeological excursions with trips to the countryside. One of the most interesting spots is the Estrecho del Magdalena, a few miles from San Agustín, where the Magdalena river rushes through a narrow tunnel of enormous stones.

THE PAEZ INDIANS

In Tierradentro, an area of over 3,000 square kilometers, the Páez Indians live together with whites and mestizos, cultivating corn, yucca, beans, fruits and vegetables. In spite of frequent pressure they have survived as a group, preserving their language and deep-rooted traditions. The Páez Indians also have their own government, organized around a cabildo which is elected annually and is hierarchically organized to control commmunity activity in the cultivation of crops, and the construction of roads and housing. They are skilled craftsmen and make ponchos and woolen belts, among other crafts.

HOLY WEEK

Popayán is famous for its celebration of Holy Week, a tradition that goes back to the Colonial period and which the city's inhabitants have jealously guarded. Solemn processions march throught the steets as part of an event in which visitors from all over the country participate. At this time a Religious Music Festival takes place, attracting groups specializing in this type of music from various countries.