"Three things, and three things only sustain life on this planet. They are a thin layer of soil, a cover of atmosphere and a little rainfall. This is all that the good Lord has given us, except one thing. He has given us a choice of what we'll do with it. We can waste it, we can pollute it, we can neglect it. Or we can conserve it, we can protect it... We can pass it along to our children, more promising and abundant than we found it."--President Johnson comments about preserving the Hill Country of Texas recorded after his retirement for bus tour of LBJ National Historic Park, Ranch Unit.

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This is a tour guide to sights, sounds, scenes, and other sensations of Johnson City and environs, boyhood home of the the 36th President of the United States of America, Lyndon Baines Johnson. Most of the sites and attractions will be critiqued by a select group of illustrious Johnson City residents (not very difficult when one considers that less than 1,200 persons live here, making everyone illustrious). No site will be ignored, no activity undescribed in this unoffical guide. But please bear with us as we add information important for your educational and personal visiting pleasure. Here's looking at us, kids.

Looking for real estate? Scroll to the bottom of this page for links to real estate related sites and notices.

Boyhood Home of Lyndon Johnson

Although Johnson City, Texas, was not the birthplace of Lyndon Johnson -- he was born outside of town -- this was the town where he went to school, worked, and learned the crafty art of politics in which he excelled. Born on the banks of the Pedernales River in 1908 to his mother and father, Sam Ealy Johnson, Jr. and Rebekah Baines, near Stonewall, a small rural community a short distance from Johnson City -- now part of the LBJ Ranch District of the National Historical Park. Lyndon's family moved to Johnson City and into the house where he was to spend the formative years of his life. This house would later become the national landmark the Lyndon Johnson Boyhood Home,
one part of the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park in Johnson City.

Lyndon was educated at an early age into the vagaries of political life by his father who, being the state legislator for 12 years, took Lyndon with him on his many treks through his congressional district. When Lyndon was just a small boy shining shoes in front of the old downtown barber shop, he was, according to his cousin, Ava Cox, already remonstrating political action and declared early on his desire to be president.

Meanwhile Lyndon was the peach in his mother's eye. A school teacher by profession, Rebeka loved her little boy and encouraged him to dream of playing an important role in the newly emergent economic powerhouse that the state of Texas was to become. She instilled in him the value of personal education and the reasonableness of the idea that education should be made available to anyone who desired learning. Partly to please his mother, but also to please himself, Lyndon followed in her footsteps and matriculated from Southwest Texas State Teacher's College in nearby San Marcus. He took up the teaching profession and taught public school to poor students for a year in Cotulla, Texas during the late 20's and early 30's. Lyndon's appreciation for education led to his great committment to the idea that education should be available to all. As President he enacted numerous pieces of legislation that enhanced and advanced the field of higher education. Beginning with the Reagan administration in the early 1980's the Federal government began to turn away from the commitment to education initiated by Lyndon Johnson. Many of us alive today have received degrees of higher learning because of the care for and devotion to public education by the 36th President of the United States.

What to See in Johnson City

As we have seen, Johnson City is the Headquarters of the LBJ National Historical Park. The Vistitor Center is located two blocks off U.S. Highway 290 West, the highway that takes you to the LBJ National Historical Park LBJ Ranch Division, Stonewall, and Fredericksburg, a tourist destination for thousands of visitors each year. Still, we are talking about Johnson City sites, here.

In addition to the LBJ Boyhood home, sites of significant historical interest include the Pedernales Electric Cooperative Headquarters, a major component of the rural electrification project undertaken during the 30's and 40's that brought remote rural areas into the Twentith Century and beyond. The P.E.C., as its known around here, employs many local family members and is the engine of Johnson City's economy.

Faced with limestone in an effort designed to reflect the rustic vastness of the Texas realm, the architechture of the main P.E.C. Headquarters office building is 1960's western modern set upon an older1930's modern Art Decco building . Unfortunately the older design reflecting the streamlined design of the 1930's is subsumed by the newer. Nevertheless, still an attractive building it remains true to the spirit of the area as one of three government edifices that make up the federal district of town, the P.E.C. headqaurters on the east, the Boyhood Home and Visitor Center on the south and west, and the modern Post Office on the north side of the complex.

The P.E.C. is owner operated and is governed by a board of directors elected from local, memeber residents.

Located on the west side of the National Historical Park complex is the Johnson Settlement
the original piece of land bought by Sam Ealy Johnson, Lyndon's grandfather as part of his land holdings which, according to Robert Caro in The Years of Lyndon Johnson: The Path to Power, made the Johnsons' one of the largest land holders in all of Blanco, Gillespie, Hays, Comal, and Kendall counties. In the early 1870's Johnson's fortune was built on cattle - Longhorn cattle, a breed especially suitable for the harsh granzing conditions often encountered by ranchers in Texas. Johnson was one of the important cattle drive businessmen in the area. Each year he would assemble a large group of cattle from neighboring ranchers and drive the cattle north to the railheads in Kansas along what became the Chisholm Trail. The Chisholm Trail had its origins in Mexico and traced its way northward right through the heart of the Texas Hill Country near Johnosn City. Although the Johnson family lost possession of the spread by the crash of 1873, Lyndon later bought the place to add to his dream of his Johnson family story. This piece of land comprising of about 40 acres has several historical structures maintained by the National Park Service as testimony and tribute to the frontier life of the Nintenth Century. A small museum showcases the life and times of the Hill country citizens during the time of the Texas trail drives. Photographs at the musem clearly detail the harshness of the toil involved for the pioneers living on the central Texas frontier. As livestock was an integral aspect of this frontier life, the park maintains a small herd of Texas longhorns which calve each Spring.

A walk along the settlement's Nature Trail and roads highlights the look and feel of the Hill Country in less complicated and populous times. The Johnson Settlement provides the traveler and visitor a haven from the congestion of similar parks and facilities elsewhere and allows a leisure exploration and insightful glimpse at the area's recent wild--as in wilderness, not gunslinging--past. Of particular note are the birds and plants that grow and thrive throughout the settlement, some which are found nowhere else or are endangered becasue of loss of habitat due to harmful past agricultural practices and contemporary urban srawl. In good years the Spring and Fall migrations of birds through the area is impressive and hundreds of species of birds are represented in the area. Central Texas is a flyway for substantial numbers of raptors, ducks, geese, cranes, and -- incredibly -- large flocks of White pelicans are seen each Spring.

In the Fall the migration of Monarch butterflies ocurrs. The colorful insects wing their way through the area to their Mexican wintering grounds. During years of normal rainfall (28") wildflowers and other flowering plants that dazzle the eye and senses bloom colorfully year round . Of course, the depicted photo on the left is not that of a Monarch butterfly. But the ones on the lavender flowers are!

drought conditions versus wet

All pictures taken at Johnson Settlement, LBJ National Historical Park September 19-21, 1999 by Bill Arbon. The picture on the left is a view of the Dogtrot house to the southeast, early afternoon, late summer. The effects of extended drought can easily be seen in the yellowish golden grass in late summer, contrasting with the soft green of early spring reflecting the adequate rainfall received over winter.

This photo shows the adjacent barn built (ca 1880) by the Bruckner family after the Johnson family temporarily left the area. It was used by the tenants to support their ranch and farm livelihood. Besides serving as an agricultural center, this building also served as a bastion in which persons could barracade themselves in case of maurading indians, although they had ceased living or moving through the surrounding country. The huge limestone edifice was several feet thick and had gun ports incorporated into its design. The imposing strength of the structure is readily apparent in the following view of north side, photographer facing south.

Johnson City has never been a place where it was easy to make easy money or even make a living. Easily destabalized by national or state economic tides, Johnson City remains at the mercy of outside influences it has little control over. And having no economic enterprise uniquely its own to fall back upon-save those created through the energy of Lyndon Johnson-Johnson City remains vulnerable to the vagaries of today's high tech economy. In the past, agriculture played a key role in the long history of the town. Most of the old original buildings(fewer as time goes by) have seen a variety of enterprises trying to make a financial go of it. These days, only a handful of establishments survive for more than a couple of years, and only a few buildings are still functioning in their original capacity. Darker clouds loom. Some of the larger businesses in town such as the Johnson City Bank have undertaken plans to 'modernize' down town. Drastic alterations and customizations scar these newer interpretations which ultimately work against the historical preservation of the downtown Lyndon Johnson once knew. Still, other buildings such as Blanco County Supply, facing the Courthouse on the town square, remain well worth visting. It even functions as it always has as one of the few still operating homegrown hardware stores. A look at the other old buildings clearly illustrates the extremely difficult economic conditions endured by this frontier town time and time again-and easliy show their vulnerabitlity to the whims of today's strip mall tastes. I will soon include as many before and after pictures of these remodelings as time and space will allow. Some of the downtown buildings and their current occupants are:

• Bryan's Confectionary -- This old limestone building on Nugent Avenue reeked of real wild western days and has seen a variety of uses since the LBJ presidency. Currently the home of an art dealership. It has recently undergone an extensive alteration. The owner wants to create a New York style of sensibility for this building. (And I thought this was Johnson City, Texas;-) A sturdy old wooden awening was torn down to aid in this latest big city interpretation.
• Blanco County Supply -- Nelson Wither's unique hardware store occupies a M-shaped Quonset Hut on the town square across the street from the Blanco County Courthouse. Recently sold to new owners, who knows what 'moderinzing' plans are instore for this venerable old building.
• Barrow's Drive In Movie Theater -- Down Nugent Avenue (Loop 365) from the Court House, the Betty Jo Broadbeck's (Barrow) family home was smartly designed to also serve as a drive-in movie theater. Until recently the drive-in still had the ticket booth and drive that took movie goers to the backyard parking lot.
• Casparis Cafe on Nugent Street (old Main Street) -- Impeckable Aviaries since 1980, this cafe was also a meat market and an important social center for the community. Lyndon Johnson worked and ate here as a young boy and took Mrs. Casparis' recipe, so the stroy goes, to the White House in 1963. There was always a pot of chili bubbling on the stove of the White House's kitchen.
• Cox's Ford Dealer at the corner of Nugent Avenue and U.S. Highway 290, has housed many different activities including a bridal shop, a florist, a cafe and antique store, as well as the only Ford dealership in town.
• Crider BuildingOn the conrner opposite Pearl Hotel. Radically remodeled from its early 50's auto dealership days (was at one time, the Chevy dealer - opposite side of street and down the block from arch - rival Ford dealership in the Cox building). This building has had several make overs during its 70+ years. Perhaps the most interesting was as a drive-in garage/gasoline station that enabled customers to enter off a side street and exit on Main Street (now Nugent Avenue). As a drive in, this could have been one of the most interesting achetectural buildings in downtown. Unfortunately, such a re-creation is now a long way off.
• Crider's Grocery Store on Highway 290 West -- Now a local 'department' store.
• Fawcett Drug Store Now empty.
• Johnson City Bank is housed in an old rock building that also contained LBJ's office when he was in town. This venerable old limestone building has been a hardware store, hotel, retirement center, dance hall and perhaps other things, besides being the present site of the Johnson City Bank. It has been extensively modified and added to by the current occupants of the bank. It has in fact, lost its ability to have a historic plaque placed on the edifice.
• ?Immediately next to the old stone Bank building on US 290 (now Main Street!?) -- originally a cafe, the building became the press center when LBJ served as President. This building is now forsale.
• Nothings Hobby Shop -- Retired school teacher Louise Gibson's antique and resale shop. Louise and her husband M.O. live on a ranch outside of town and were invited guests at the LBJ Ranch when the President was in town. Note: Louise has since closed her store and is no longer living. A great friend, her presence is sorely missed. Her store is now repainted and houses a department store type function.
• A.J.'s Barber Shop -- Located on Nugent Avenue and until recently still functioning as a barber shop, this small metal-faced building has remained nearly unchanged since, and according to Ava Cox, Lyndon's cousin, the years when LBJ shined shoes and talked politics to the area men. Ava got mad when people asked her if Lyndon Johnson was her cousin. She would always answer, "No, he is my cousin, as I was born first." Now a private residence.
• Simpson Building, 108 Nugent Avenue, next to the altered Friendly Bar. The old gas company shop has served the use of many enterprises over the years. Long the home of the Johnson City Record Courier, the oldest established city newspaper's home, the store has since been a cosmetic wholesale outlet and is now home of Rare Bird Gallery, Elaine's and my antique, art gallery, and bird food retail store. We specialize in 50's and 60's collectibles, lamps and furnishings and will soon be putting a link here to take you to the planned web page up of this enterprise. The web page is now up and you can reach the gallery at this address: Rare Bird Gallery
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• Sharp Building -- Now -- this building was for many years the office of Hattie (Casparis) Sharp, Accountant and Realtor. While the interior has been sligly modified, the facade still suggests the Johnson City of Lyndon's time. Now houses insurance companys.
• Stein Lumber Company Unfortunately, now remodeled, the Johnson City Stein's Lumber Company shares its architectural design with its home office, Stein's Lumber Company of Fredericksburg, both which reflect their Spanish inspired look complete with a horse-shoe arch connecting the lumber yard with the main building.
• Theater Building -- Owned and operated by the late Betty Jo Broadbeck's family and former county judge Mike Barrow enterprise on Nugent Avenue, the old movie theater still exists. Unfortunately, it has been remodeled to conform with the 'newer' western design and has lost some of its architectural uniqueness when its round ticket booth was walled in to make a flat facade at the front of the building. Since this remodeling ocurred so long ago, the building's design still fits the feel and look of the town LBJ knew growing up here as a child. Now occupied by an antique store.
• Trapani Building -- Former owner Bill Trapani's building is the original bank in Johnson City. An old limestone rock building covered over with adobe for many years, Trapani shocked the little town when he bought it and removed the adobe patina revealing for many old time Johnson City residents the hewn limestone jewel that lay beneath the facade. It must be ironic that the newest renovations in old downtown Johnson City are reverting to the old fake western Stucco patina that covers over so many of the original rock, stone and brick of the original buildings.

  All these buildings can be seen and explored in the National Park Service's 'Walking Tour of Johnson City' which follows this route from the boyhood home and park headquarters. A brochure is available from the park's Visitor Center.

  Early in 1997, the City of Johnson City established a Historical Preservation Ordinance and appointed several interested citizens to the advisory Historic Review Board, including Elaine and me. We hope to be able to persuade others in the community to invest more energy into saving features in the town that showcase both its frontier history (as opposed to wild western history which the town was not a part) as well as its important influence upon the young life and career of Lyndon B. Johnson. Of course, there is an equally compelling fact that, in turn, Lyndon Johnson had a great influence upon his own community. Although sometimes we fail to see the significance of our own enviorns, we hope to demonstrate that it is not only extemely wise to preserve the past in its original form for historical reasons, but that preservation can enhance the town economically, culturally, and esthetically as well. Several years ago in order to facilitate, the National Park Service has provided a grant to Southwest Texas State University's (LBJ's alma matar) Public History Program to conduct a survey of Johnson City's architectural resources. This study, directed by Dr. Cynthia Brandimarte, may help put the recently designated downtown historic district on the National Register of Historic Places. For a description of the purpose of the National Register, go here: National Register of Historic Places.
  This listing will more appropriately tie together the newly created downtown historic district -- which includes the present Blanco County Courthouse with the LBJ National Historical Park and Boyhood Home of Lyndon Johnson located a few blocks south at 200 East Elm Street, broadening the scope of sights to see and visit in Johnson City. News Flash Johnson City political infighting has taken its toll on this project and we will not be placing the old downtown Historic District on the National Register of Historic Places. Perhaps the best way to inspire the community to act to pursue the nomination is for you to express your opinion by emailing your comments to Impeckable Aviaries or to ,The LBJ National Historical Park Headquarters
  There is no doubt of the impact Johnson City had on the national history of the United States and it is past time we are recognized for being the important community we are thanks to the lifetime of effort that Lyndon Johnson, 36th President of the United States, gave to his hometown.

  On January 25, 1998, the Historic Review Board and the First Christian Church of Johnson City held a memorial service for the 36th President of the United States. We invited the citizens of town to join us in a special Sunday service to commemorate the life of our most illustrious citizen. The program we put together included these words I wrote for our commemeration. I called it

What to Do in Johnson City.

Lyndon Johnson Birthday Activities

Lyndon Johnson's birthday is August 27th and each year on the week-end closest to the date, the National Park Service hosts a birthday party. Several of us private citizens tried to expand this observance and give it a true community dimension. While we have yet to succeed, we encourage you to visit the park at this time to celebrate the birthday of the 36th President of the United States. The last two years have seen the city of Johnson City back away from official ceremonies hononring the late President. And, as there are no other public festivities outside the gravesite ceremony at the LBJ Ranch, I especially recommend this Johnson family ceremony which is always officiated by some important dignitary of the LBJ era or family member. It is truly an impressive event.

To see what a great time we once had, click here