TREMEC T45 TRANSMISSION REMOVAL 1999 COBRA (4.6L DOHC 4V)

My FRPP King Cobra clutch system was installed the summer of 2001, (last summer) and the car has only had 3-4K miles put on it since the installation. This summer I began noticing a noise in the clutch pedal as I depressed the pedal and it reached it's farthest point near the floor. It would start out as a click and as the car got hotter would graduate to a very loud popping. You could feel this in the pedal. After removing the dust cover on the transmission and having someone (wife) pump the clutch pedal I found the release lever was shifting inwards towards the spindle about 1/16" and making the popping sound. It definitely was not right and needed to be fixed. I determined it could be the release lever, TOB or pivot stud (or all of them) causing the problem. I purchased new replacement parts from Ford and began the job on a weekend. After I removed the transmission and inspected all the pieces I did find all three pieces had worn. I did not have to remove the pressure plate or clutch disc, they are working fine. This "popping" problem is very common.

Before proceeding I ran many searches on the internet Mustang forums and found tons of people of all year SN95 Mustangs (94+) complaining of the same problem. There were mixed theories, solutions, fixes, etc so I hope this helps anyone else that may have this problem. With as many people with the same problem I would think Ford would have a TSB for this, but I found none in the archives. I would say it was more of a poor design issue than anything else. Hopefully these problems are worked out in future Mustangs.

Item

Description

1

Flywheel

2

Flywheel to clutch pressure plate dowel (3 req'd)

3

Pilot bearing

4

Clutch disc

5

Clutch pressure plate

6

Clutch release lever

7

Clutch release lever stud

8

Bolt (7 req'd)

9

Flywheel housing

10

Bolt

11

Clutch release lever dust shield

12

Clutch release hub and bearing

14

Bolt (6 req'd) 4.6L (2V)

14

Bolt (6 req'd) 4.6L (4V)

15

Rear face of block and flywheel (part of 6010)

16

Bolt (2 req'd)

17

Flywheel housing to block dowel (2 req'd)
TREMEC T45 TRANSMISSION REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

2. Remove the gearshift lever knob.

3. Remove the console panel gearshift plate. Lift the gearshift lever boot over the gearshift lever.

4. Remove the bolts and the shift lever.

5. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, raise and support the vehicle.

NOTE:
If you have a Steeda Triax installed, you will need to remove the entire Triax assembly because it is too high and will not clear the floor to get the transmission out. 13MM bolts.

6. Remove the dual converter H-pipe and O2 sensor connectors.

7. Remove the drive shaft.

CAUTION:
Index-mark the drive shaft flange and pinion flange, and the drive shaft slip yoke and transmission output shaft.

NOTE:
These drive shaft bolts require a 12MM, 12 point socket or wrench to remove. They are generally installed with locktite so they are very hard to get out. My impact gun would not break them loose. I had to position a wrench on the bolts, then using a small bottle jack positioned under the wrench, I slowly jacked the wrench up till the bolts broke free. I also weighed the stock steel drive shaft to see how much it weighed and it was exactly 21 lbs.

8. Disconnect the reversing lamp switch electrical connector.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the transmission.

9. Remove the starter motor bolts and lay the starter aside.
NOTE:
13MM bolts (3 each)

10. Disconnect the OSS sensor electrical connector.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the transmission.

11. Remove the bolt and the clutch release lever cover.
NOTE:
10MM bolt.

CAUTION:
To prevent component damage, do not depress the clutch pedal with the transmission removed.

12. Disengage the clutch release cable from the clutch release lever.

13. Remove the clutch cable retainer and remove the clutch cable from the transmission.

14. If transmission disassembly is necessary, drain the transmission fluid.
NOTE:
Yes, drain the fluid or you'll be wiping up a big puddle!
Use a 3/8" drive ratchet without socket to remove plug.

15. Position a transmission jack and support the transmission.

16. Remove the bolts and the transmission cross member.
NOTE:
16MM bolts inside (2 each)
13MM bolts outside (4 each)

17. Remove the lower bell housing bolts.
NOTE:
13MM bolts (2 each)

18. Lower the transmission and remove remaining bell housing bolts.
NOTE:
13MM bolts (7 each)

NOTE:
I used a small bottle jack and 2x4 piece of wood to jack up the front of the engine, just under the front edge of the oil pan lip. Jack the front of the engine up as much as you can to tilt the engine and that will make removal and installation of the transmission allot easier.

This is how these clutch pieces assemble inside the transmission.
NOTE:
When installing the TOB make sure the TOB is over the spring clips, and not under the spring clips like the pivot stud. The pivot stud installs under the spring clips.

The release lever, throwout bearing and pivot stud installed.

UPPER BELL HOUSING BOLTS LOWER BELL HOUSING AND
DRIVE SHAFT BOLTS
I spent a week trying to get replacement bolts from Ford. The old part numbers were no longer valid and they were unable to locate a new part number for replacement bolts. Finally they matched the bolts up with another vehicle as replacement bolts. If you ever need to replace your bell housing bolts, these are the good part numbers from Ford. All of these bolts are Grade 9.8, which is a VERY hard bolt. The new replacement bolts are not the exact length and the shank size is shorter, but the engineers at Ford assured me and the dealer these were the replacement bolts. I think it may have something to do with the fact that all Tremec T45 transmissions are now being replaced with the Tremec 3650 transmissions and these are the new bolts. Just my guess?

Bolt #1 Old - 2 each
Ford Part # No Longer available from Ford

Bolt #1 New - 2 each
Ford Part # N606068-S100
NOTE:
Be sure to remove the Locktite from the threads before installing. If you install with the Locktite you will not get them out again.

Bolt #2 Old - 5 each
Ford Part # No Longer available from Ford

Bolt #2 New - 5 each
Ford Part # N606063-S427

 The new drive shaft bolts come with Locktite already on the threads. This should remain on these bolts for installtion.

Bolt #3 Old and New - 2 each,
Lower Bell Housing,
Ford Part #N605917-S2
Grade 9.8 bolt (Very hard bolt)

Bolt #4 Old and New - 4 each,
Rear Drive Shaft Yoke,
Ford Part#N800594-S100
12MM, 12 Point head.
Grade 12.9 (VERY, VERY hard bolt)

This is the exhaust gasket that goes between the passengers side exhaust manifold flange and the mid-pipe flange.

Ford Part # XR3Z-9450-AA

This is a blown out and burned MAC gasket I got with my Pro-Chamber, and a perfect example of why you should use the Ford metal gasket to the left.
 

My baby is sick, but being treated properly!

Breakdown of the clutch pieces with the transmission and bell housing removed

The top two bell housing bolts were the worst to remove (horrible). I used a 3'(long), 1/2" drive extension and ratchet to break them free with the use of a pipe for extra pulling power. I'll be purchasing all new bell housing bolts when I install everything as the heads are showing signs of wear and I don't what to chance the heads rounding off if I ever pull the transmission again. The other bell housing bolts needed extra power to remove also but they were easier to access than the top ones.

Yes, these pictures are after I pressure washed the transmission.
It's so clean you can eat off it now!

Before removing the transmission from the car, it's best to drain the transmission fluid first because with all the wiggling and slanting required to get it out the fluid will run out the drive shaft hole at the end of the transmission. When reinstalling I'll be able to refill the fluid through the shifter before installing the Triax assembly.

I had to remove the entire Steeda Triax assembly to get the transmission out. The Triax assembly wouldn't clear the floor when sliding out.

Human Transmission! Who needs a Tremec T45 !
Compliments of my wife! 

This combined with the clutch release lever and pivot stud were causing my clutch pedal "popping" problem. I purchased a new throwout bearing from Ford. I'm told the above "slop" is for self alignment, which makes sense, however there was extreme play in my old bearing compared to the new one. They were both the same part number

#F7ZZ-7548-AA

The new throwout bearing comes pre-lubed, but during installation of the new throwout bearing, wipe some long life high temp grease inside the bearing where it rides on the spindle and release lever, and also apply some on the spindle itself.

This is where the pivot stud snaps into the release lever. The socket it sits in has worn on the sides over time. These pieces only have 26K miles on them. I purchased a new release lever from Ford.

#XR32-7515-AA

When installing the new release lever the socket needs to contain a long life high temp grease

The ball end of the pivot stud snaps into the release lever pivot socket. You can see the wear on the sides of the ball. I purchased a new pivot stud from Ford.

#F6ZZ-7B602-A

During installation of the new pivot stud, wipe some long life high temp grease on the ball.