Ribbon Raglan

Ribbon Raglan ©Joan Dyer

A raglan shaped summer short sleeved wide necked top. Work this as a short pullover, a longer tunic, or even a summer dress! The fabric is very nice and drapy, and will fit your shape without being overly clingy. I am displaying a large size on my medium self, knit of 5 skeins of ribbon. It is approximately 27” from nape of neck to sweater bottom. Each skein yields about 6” of length.

Yarn: TessDesignerYarns latest ribbon yarn.
Gauge: 3 sts/inch.
Needles: 24 or 32” circular for body and lower yoke, 16” circ for sleeves, upper yoke, and neck edge, size US #13 (9 mm) or size needed to get gauge.
Other equipement: 4 markers, waste yarn, needle to kitchener underarms.

Measurements:
sweater circumference: 34” small, (38” medium, 43” large)
length: knitter's choice, from cropped short sleeved crew thru tunic to dress.

Tips:

I found it easiest to use a knitting needle with a roundish point (rather than a sharp point). This helps avoid poking holes in the yarn.
The ribbon yarn is not super slippery (which is nice). Use handcream to keep hands smooth so as not to catch the yarn.
The ribbon will twist as you are knitting; you may choose to untwist periodically if you find it an annoyance.

Yarn stingy alternate directions: One way to not worry about running out of yarn is to start this sweater midway. Either work a provisional caston for the sweater body or else cast on “normally” with waste yarn and knit a round or two (the waste yarn will be cut away later) then switch to the ribbon yarn. Knit about 4 inches or so and then work sleeve cuffs, divide and join the sleeves, and work up until the neckline is finished. Now turn the sweater upside down. Pick up from the provisional caston, or pick up the stitches from the waste yarn then cut away and discard the waste yarn. Knit downwards until the sweater length is as desired, or until out of yarn. You can estimate the amount of ribbon needed for one round, and be sure to leave enough for your desired bottom edge treatment.

Decorative pattern stitch (multiple of 4, worked in the round):

Round 1: K2, Sl1 wyif, K1. Repeat around.
Round 2: K1, Sl1 wyif. Repeat around.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 alternately, as many times as desired. The bands at the sweater yoke and sleeve cuffs have 5 pattern rounds.

Bottom edge pattern stitch (multiple of 4, worked in the round):

Round 1: P1 K1 Sl1 wyif, K1. Repeat around
Round 2: P1 Sl1 wyif K1 SL1 wyif. Repeat around.

The purl stitch column pretends to be a rib (it does not pull in with ribbon yarn). It adds a bit of depth to the pattern stitch; they look similar otherwise. The bottom band was worked over 7 rounds.

Cast off worked in single crochet.

Sweater pattern (in the style of Jacqueline Fee; I am indebted to The Sweater Workshop for my introduction to raglans in the round):

Cast on 104 (116, 128) stitches using the longer circular needle and join, being careful not to twist. Note: work a provisional caston or use scrap yarn if you are concerned about yarn quantities.

If you are working from the very bottom edge of the sweater, work a 7 round bottom band of decorative stitches (subdues the tendency of stockinette to curl). Continue for desired length to start of armhole. Note: if working a provisional caston, knit only a dozen or so rounds.

First sleeve: Using the smaller circular needle (or double points) work the first sleeve (we only need a cuff). Starting with a separate ball of ribbon, cast on 42 (45, 48) stitches and join, being careful not to twist. Work 5 pattern rounds Knit one round, break yarn leaving a reasonable length tail to kitchener a few underarm stitches.

Join first sleeve to body: Place a start of round marker on the body needle. Knit 34 (36, 38) sleeve stitches from the small (sleeve) needle onto the longer body needle. There will be 8 (9, 10) sleeve stitches left. Put these stitches on scrap yarn, and put the next 8 (9, 10) body stitches on scrap yarn (first underarm). Place another marker.

Knit 44 (50, 54) body stitches. Set aside.

Second sleeve: prepare second sleeve same as first (the small circ is available again).

Joine second sleeve to body: Place a marker on the body needle. Join second sleeve, just as the first sleeve, by knitting 34 (36, 38) sleeve stitches onto the body needle. There will be 8 (9, 10) sleeve stitches left. Place these stitches on scrap yarn, and put the next 8 (9, 10) body stitches on scrap yarn (second underarm). Place another marker.

Knit 44 (50, 54) body stitches. This should bring you to the beginning of round marker; you have just completed the joining round and now have 156 (172, 184) stitches on the long circ.

Work 4 rounds even, stop 2 stitches before the start-of-round marker.

Work one raglan decrease round:

On the 2 stitches just before start-of-round marker, SSK. Pass marker. K2tog.
Knit to 2 stitches before the next marker. SSK, pass marker, K2tog.
Repeat for next two markers, then knit to end of round.

Work 3 even rounds, then another raglan decrease round.
Work 2 even rounds, then a raglan decrease round.
Work 2 more even rounds, then a raglan decrease round.

From now on: work one round even then a raglan decrease round (that is, work the decreases every other round). AT THE SAME TIME, work a 5-round decorative pattern here, and then again about 6 or so rounds later. (You can use the decorate pattern over the entire yoke if desired.)

Continue until the there are 4 (6, 6) sleeve stitches left, ending with a raglan decrease round. Bind off using single crochet.

If you used a provisional caston, turn the sweater upside down, pick up the waiting 104 (116, 128) stitches and work down until desired length or nearly out of yarn. Leave enough to work 7 or more decorative pattern rounds, and single crochet castoff (or whatever edge treatment you prefer).

Kitchener stitch the underarms, close any gaps, darn in ends, and enjoy.