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(click this link to go to this update
location)
Earlier Modifications and maintenance performed
at 105k miles...
- Bilstein HD shocks and front suspension bushing
replacements.
- New style BMW M20 head gasket and Torx headbolts updates.
- New clutch assy., timing belt, water pump,
poly alternator mount bushings,
external fuel pump and all new fuel and water hoses, including clamps.
- Fusebox and electrical
connector maintenance and relay replacements.
The vehicle is rigorously maintained, including use
of synthetic oils and lubes and Zymol wax and leather treatments.
Internet resources for helping you with your
BMW E28 work are:
Update July 15, 2008
All of these web sites will lead you
to all sorts of other BMW resources. Check them out. Recent comments about this website were made by my peers and
posted here, which I was very happy to see. My 10 minutes of fame!
One very important point...
All information presented
here is for informational and documentation purposes only and is not to be considered as "complete instructions" on how to
do it. I am simply showing how I did this work, why, a few tips that may help you with the same work and what the completed
work resulted in with respect to improvements with my 528e. Further, I assume that the reader has good automotive maintenance
skills, correct tools and has a copy of the Bentley manual. I'll help with a few questions, if sent to me, but please don't expect
that I'll hand-hold you through any of the following modifications. That is not the purpose of having published these pages.
- 2004 Modifications -
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2004 brake, suspension and wheel modifications...
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| E32 Disc Brake Rotor and Caliper |
E32 BIG Brake Upgrade
The E32 (7 Series) brake upgrade is a very good improvement
in braking power and it's easy to accomplish as it is a simple "bolt-on" process... take the original pieces off and put the
new pieces on. The E32 rotor is 302x28mm, versus the stock E28 front rotor which is 282x22mm. You'll need to have 15-inch
wheels, as the E32 caliper won't fit inside a 14-inch wheel. I upgraded to 16-inch wheels which I discuss further down this
page. My original 390mm TRX tires/wheels still fit. Rear brakes were also upgraded to E34 530i units, but I went back to the
stock setup as the E34 brakes made no difference. Perhaps if I was tracking the car, but, of course, I am not. Don't
forget to flush the brake fluid every two years, or sooner if you're tracking the car once in a while. Castrol GT LMA is a
good quality fluid, especially here in the Virginia humidity.
All the disc rotor vanes and hubs were painted
with a high-temp paint to prevent rust. See this page for info on doing this. The calipers were painted with VHT high gloss. All brake hoses were replaced
with stainless steel lines. The stock Master Cylinder was retained, it was not replaced with an E32 unit, based on input from
others... good input as the pedal feel and travel distance is fine with the stock E28 Master Cylinder, allowing good modulation
of these non ABS brakes.
Update May 11, 2009
Anti-Sway Bar changes
A Suspension
Techniques 22mm (actually 22.2mm) adjustable anti-sway (anti-roll) bar with its red poly bushings, replaced the 18.25mm
factory anti-sway bar. A 25mm M5 bar with modified brackets was tried, but I found it too harsh, given my suspension configuration
and the handling feel I was looking for. The stock 14mm rear anti-sway bar was also replaced with a Racing Dynamics adjustable 16mm
bar, which is a bit larger than the later model E28 bar that is 15.5mm.
Further, the rear anti-sway bar mounts on the E28 are not really capable of supporting a larger
sway bar, such as an 18mm or larger. Shawn D. has posted info on how to reinforce the rear mounts. Information on how to reinforce the front sway bar mounts for use with a larger 25mm bar has been missing
for a while, but has recently resurfaced in an MS Word format. I have converted it to a ".pdf" format document and it's available
here.
I've spent about three years borrowing, buying and testing various
suspension components and tires, to arrive at a configuration I am happy with for my primary use, long distance driving and
improved performance in the twisties. However, you may not like my setup, depending on what you're looking for and the
type of driving you do, as sorting out a vehicles handling is a very personal thing... there are no magic combinations
you can simply bolt on! Some good info about all this is at Turnfast, if you're interested.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT SUSPENSION TECHNIQUES REAR ANTI-SWAY BAR
INSTALLATION-
Racing Dynamics no longer markets an adjustable 16mm rear anti-sway bar,
but Suspension Techniques does and it looks like it may actually be the Racing Dynamics part. However, the installation instructions
for tightening the center bolt of the rear link has a major error, as it specifies a bolt tightening torque that is excessive
and will cause a failure! Please see this page which I have modified to show the problem.
Update Jan. 17, 2008
- E28 Spring Rates, a report by Devinder on MyE28.com has been posted and includes most all of the available springs made for the E28. An excellent resource for you to review, if
you're thinking about changing springs to accomplish a change with your E28 handling response. Check it out!
And
before we leave this info about brake upgrades, you may find the following information very useful...
StopTech Technical White Papers
The Brake Bible
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| E39 Style 29 BBS/BMW wheels with hub-centric adapters. |
Update
June 11, 2009
E39 Style 29 16x7 ET20 wheels require a 74mm to 72.56mm hub-centric
alloy adapter rings, to make up for the difference in the larger hub bore size of the E39 wheel. The adapter ring is shown
below and is available from the Tire Rack at 1-888-376-8473.
Local E28 owner Marc English advises me that Tire Rack
is now listing this adapter ring as p/n
72.56RING at $3.00 each
It is evidently no longer labeled/stocked as p/n A670
DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO USE THESE WHEELS WITHOUT THIS ADAPTER RING!
And don't forget about the Tire Rack information services documents which cover a multitude of subjects
pertaining to tires and their care right from the start with info about Breaking in your tires.
My refurbished wheels came from The Wheel Collision Center. Their quality of work is excellent, as is their level of service! Wheels
are fitted with Yokohama AVS Sport 205/55/ZR16 tires and you can see the E32 big brakes. The larger section width of the 225/50/ZR16
(9.1 in. vs. 8.4 in.) created a rear wheel fender clearance problem with three people aboard. Further, I did not want to get
involved with "fender rolling" and the lower profile 225/50/16 size created more noise... something else I was not happy with.
The diameter of the 225/50 and the 205/55 are identical, at 24.8 inches, so there are no speedometer indication differences.
I had previously run Yoko AVS E100 205/60/14 on my Style C wheels
(smaller 23.7 in. diameter) and 205/60/15 on ARE wheels, so I had previous experience with the Yokohama tires. The 14-inch
wheels went to the crusher and the 15-inch ARE's are on a friends 1985 528e.
A good resource for E28 wheel fitment info is Shawn D.'s "E28 Wheel and Tire Tutorial", which has additional links to other info of this type. And for an
excellent wheels and tires general resource.
Also, it's easy to get confused about the different wheel types
and what a specific type looks like. Go here to see a good listing of BMW wheel types. It is a German language site,
but has pictures of all the BMW wheel types, so you can see what a particular type looks like, as well as its specs.
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| Hub-centric Adapter Ring |
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| Front axle hub WITHOUT the Hub-centric adapter ring installed |
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| Front axle WITH Hub-centric adapter ring installed, ready for E39 wheel |
Newer wheels and tires bring significant handling performance improvements
to the E28. Shown above I am weighing the Style 29 16x7 inch wheel with a new General Exclaim UHP 205/55-16 mounted, compared
to the older TRX wheel with a Michelin 200/60-390mm tire mounted. These tires are replacing the Yokohama AVS Sports which
are now worn after four years of use (11,000 miles). The Exclaim UHP brings with it newer technology and lower cost.
Using an accurate balance beam scale, the new larger 16-inch wheel
and 205/55-16 tire which is 1/4-inch taller, but has a much wider tread width, is nearly one pound lighter, at 38.0 lbs versus
the smaller Michelin TRX wheel and tire assembly at 38.9 lbs. Other tire/wheel combinations are possible, of course, inspite
of the E28s age which still has access to all sorts of combinations to support your specific desires or needs, be it maximum
fuel economy or auto crossing.
 The 1983 528e came stock from the factory with the 18-Spoke Style
C 14x6 ET22 wheel, or with the Style C 390mm with the Michelin TRX tires as an option (above left). My 528e was fitted
with the 6 series 19-Spoke ET22 390mm wheels (above right) and TRX tires, offered by Evergreen BMW as an option. Too bad the
19-Spoke was never made in 15 or 16-inch sizes, as it was a very good looking wheel, IMO.
June 8, 2006 Update - (But, not really the
problem!)
Finally found the problem with the front end vibration at 65 MPH.
Turns out my Style 29 wheels on the E32 rotors don't like to be tightened over the mid-point torque spec of 74 ft-lbs ± 9
ft-lbs. Absolutely no vibration at any speed when torqued to 70 ft-lbs. (clean threads, lightly oiled)
I had them off just prior to the May 7, 2006 BMWCCA Concours, to
wash the wheel wells and I put them back on at the upper torque limit. We first noticed the vibration on the way to Nottoway
Park and again several weeks ago, before I finally got a chance to locate the problem starting yesterday morning.
Took a day and a half of testing, but this is the problem. Time
was also expended on testing with both the black plastic (1010tire) and aluminum (TireRack) hub centering rings. No difference,
other than the plastic rings require more care in handling and wheel install/removal work, to prevent damage to the plastic
rings.
June 13, 2006 Update - (This is the
real problem!)
Additional tests with three passengers onboard created typical worn
control arm bushing problems, including steering wheel vibration at approximately 52 mph during light brake application. Replacement
parts are on order from Steve Haygood. Parts replacement is shown here.
2004 Euro headlight installation...
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| Stock lights removed, ready for Euro units. |
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| Euro lights and grilles installed. |
Headlights and grilles installed, ready for new wiring to support use
with high wattage H4 and H1 bulbs. Consultation and power distribution parts came from Daniel Stern Lighting.
Additionally, some excellent information about HID lighting, specifically,
the wisdom of using HID bulbs in place of Halogen bulbs in lamps designed for Halogen bulbs, is discussed here... All about HIDs
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| 22+ year old headlite connectors. |
The original plan was to connect the existing headlight terminal
connectors to the new relays that would be installed to control the lamps. However, 22+ years had taken its toll on the connectors,
as can be seen above. The connectors were cut off and new connectors were installed to attach to the new relay terminals.
You can remove these open barrel type connectors with Belden
Terminal Extractor Picks, available from NAPA. They are BEL725168 and BEL725169, at $4.69 each.
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| Using a Terminal Extractor Pick to remove the connector |
The extractor pick is inserted in the small latch groove (above
left) and minipulated to depress the small latch tab on the connector, while pulling on the wire at the rear of the connector
housing to remove the connector. You can see the small latch tab (above right) on the top of the connector, now released and
being removed from the rear of the connector housing.
After a new connector is installed, simply push the connector into
the housing until you hear the little tab snap into its seated position. Properly seated, you should not be able to pull the
wire out of the housing.
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| Top - Greenlee Kwik Cycle 9 crimper p/n 45504 with a 45509 die. Bottom - Amp crimper |
A few words about terminal crimpers... If you're only doing a few
electrical connections a year, skip this paragraph. If you're involved in extensive wiring or rewiring of a vehicle,
or vehicles, read on...
You will save yourself a lot of trouble and rework, if you use a
good quality crimping tool when doing electrical wiring work on vehicles, involving terminal connectors. Inexpensive crimpers
will work, but don't expect their connections to last as long, or be as trouble free as a terminal crimp made with a quality
tool. The simple stamped crimper tool (bottom) depends on your strength and even then its crimp caracteristics (size, pressure
applied, uniformity, etc.) can not begin to match that of a quality crimping tool (top), with a precision crimping die. All
this translates to a terminals ability to withstand vibration, corrosion, maintain current carrying capacity and other factors
that will determine how well the circuit performs and how long under various conditions.
Having spent over 40 years wiring and rewiring vehicles used
in all sorts of service, I can't overemphisize the value of good terminal crimping tools, if you're doing a lot of this. Here's
a link to an article about crimping terminals, if you're interested.
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| 12-gauge versus stock wire size. |
A copy of the headlight wiring circuit I used is available here.
The 12-gauge wire shown next to the stock headlight wiring. The
stock wires were fine for the original 35 and 37.5 watt lamps used in the stock 5-3/4 inch 4-headlight configuration. While the
stock wires will work with the Euro 55/60 watt lamps (and many do this) the stock wiring is really not up to the task
as the voltage drop will be about 0.8 volts or more with the Euro H4/H1 lamps. The lamp is only producing 80% of its rated
light output due to this voltage drop! Would you tolerate only getting 80% of your engine's rated horsepower?
The voltage drop when used with 80 to 100 watt H4 and H1 lamps is
unacceptable and this is why the larger 12-gauge wire is required... to say nothing about safety and cooked wires!
November 23, 2005 Update - I have created a separate page addressing the question of voltage
drop and its effect. Click here to go to that page.
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| Relay sockets mounted on access panel. |
New relays are mounted on the engine side of the right side headlight
access panel, with a brace piece behind the relay screws/nuts. This location does not require any holes be made in the chassis,
inviting potential rust issues in the future. I used BOSCH 0 332 019 151 relays with the two output pins (two #87 contacts)
rated at 30 amps. You could also use the Hella H41010001 relay which provides the same circuit. These relays are also available
in tab mounting configuration, which does not require a relay socket... but I prefer the socketed relay type for quick replacement.
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| Rear of Hella lamps on right side, wires being run. |
June 23, 2006 Update -
Rear view of the right side headlight "Bucket" with the Euro socket
end caps visible. The original headlight connectors are placed out of the way and you can see the new 12-gauge wiring
for high beam, low beam and ground being installed. Power from the side marker light (2 each 18-gauge yellow wire) has been
brought up to the new headlights, to power the small 4 watt city light with the Parking lights turned on.
Keep in mind that the larger lamp (right above) is not wired for
highbeam, only for lowbeam. The third terminal on the socket cap is for the city light connection. Also, on E28 socket caps,
the size of the male tab on the smaller highbeam lamp (left above) is 5/16 of an inch, it is not the standard 1/4 inch tab
as used in the U.S. You'll need a mating 5/16 inch connector.
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| Relay sockets ready for wiring and completed. |
The length of the new wires easily allows the access panel to be
removed and positioned out of the way for headlight aim adjustment or bulb changing. You can see the rubber cap on the righthand
socket cap.
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| Check Relay jumpers. |
The Low Beam Check Relay is activated by the current draw of the
original headlight filaments. Since the original headlight relays now only operate the new relays, the Check relay no longer
works correctly and causes the LED on the status panel to illuminate, all the time. This jumper arrangement will correct this
situation.
My jumper
suggestion has been called "hacking at its best" and "nonsensical", along with comparing it to the importance of "removing
the low oil level warning light from the check control panel". An absurd comparison and with no other comment about how else
to deal with a glowing red light on the check control panel. Are you supposed to simply ignore it? Put a piece of black tape
over it? Your general observation skills are so poor that you can't tell if one of your headlights is not working and you
rely on this indicator lamp for such information? Please don't waste my time with such B.S. It only shows your level of ignorance
and adds nothing of value to this web site.
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| Modified Fuse Box wiring. |
The Fuse panel wiring needs a small modification to allow the Euro
Low beam lamps to remain on, when the high beams are activated. In the picture above, you can see that the wire going from
terminal 85 (white/red) of the Low beam relay has been removed from terminal 87 of the High beam relay and now goes to a butt
connector, along with a brown wire from terminal 85 of the Fog light relay. The brown wire replaced the white/red wire that
also went to terminal 87 of the High beam relay. The other end of the butt connector is tied to ground through a wire-tap
connector.
This change keeps the Low beam on when High beam comes on, just
as late model vehicle headlamps do and also allows use of the fog lights with the low beams. With optional
higher wattage lamps, accurately aimed, I am laying down 360 watts of illumination, driving my dark country roads. Quite an
improvement over the stock feeble 145 watts system from the early 1980's!
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| Cibie CSR Low and high beam lamps |
Another lighting option...
The Cibie CSR E-code 5.75" lampset, utilizing your existing hardware
and grilles. It uses the most up-to-date complex-surface (nonparabolic) reflector technology combined with shallow-prism
lens optics to create stunning beam performance from standard-wattage bulbs. These new lamps are vastly more efficient than
conventional parabolic-reflector headlamps because they use a complex-surface reflector. Instead of a simple parabola the
reflector is comprised of over 50,000 computer-calculated points on the surface of the reflector to take maximum advantage
of the light produced by the filament.
The Cibie CSR 5.75" lamps have flat-face optic lenses and
produce one beam (low or high) per lamp unit. Both low and high beam units take an H1 bulb. The low beam unit incorporates
a city light (internal European-style parking lamp) arranged such that no cutting of a headlamp bucket is necessary in order
to use it. Available from Daniel Stern Lighting.
Improving rear end stop and running light visibility...
A simple project to increase the visibility of the rearend of your
E28 at night, is to install a jumper wire to power the unused inner lamp socket, buy two lamp holder sockets and increase
the candle power of both running lamps by replacing them with type 1003 lamps. Use a type 3497 lamp 45cp (German or
Japan mfg., not U.S. sold "equivalent!) for the stop lights and backup lights. I've tried the Halogen type 796 in place of
the 3497 lamp, yet inspite of its 60cp rating, it didn't look as bright!
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| Modifications to improve rear end visibility. |
2004 ECU/DME modification...
September 12, 2007 Update
(because it remains an ongoing issue)
First a comment about chipping...
The M20 eta engine responds extremely well to chipping
IF the engine is in a very good state of tune! I've seen far too many 528e's that have been chipped and results ranged
from no increase to a marginal power increase, because the engine and fuel system needed fixing, involving one or more of
these items:
-Dirty injectors -Weak/leaking FPR -Weak
fuel pump(s)
-Dirty fuel filter -Improper AFM setting
-Incorrect timing belt install
-Bad ECU/DME engine temp sensor -Bad O2
sensor -Bad valve lash
-Vacuum leaks -Bad cat converter -Faulty sparkplugs
-Faulty sparkplug wiring -Worn distributor cap/rotor -Bad grounds
-Bad electrical connections to these items, creating random issues
(includes fuse connectors, relays and relay pin and socket contacts)
Too many of these issues exist with 528e's because they
weren't really properly maintained or tuned, which I've personally observed and worked on over the past 20+ years.
And I've seen some BIG SIX M30 systems that weren't any better, either. I can't over emphasize this point.
DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A
PERFORMANCE CHIP
IF THE REST OF THE SYSTEMS ARE
NOT IN PEAK TUNE!
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| "027" DME/ECU with EPROM socket to allow "chiping". |
Update July 17, 2009 -
(updated E.A.T. Product#)
A used DME/ECU from a 1987 325e, with a BOSCH green label part#
0 261 200 027 (used in '84/'85 -'87 325e and 528e) has been installed to support chip swapping, as it has an EPROM
socket which the earlier 1983 "007" (last 3 digits) DME/ECU does not have. It used four (4) chips soldered in place
and is not easily removable. A Mark D'Sylva E.A.T. performance chip, product# E30-027.5K5 is being used in the "027" DME/ECU. Other chip makers such as Conforti, Dinan
and others who make a chip for the M20 eta engine, also require this model DME/ECU.
Update Nov. 1, 2007
- Before getting into the chip swap, here's a good resource that discusses trouble shooting DME/ECU hardware. Click Here . And if you'd like to know more about your Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management systems, get a copy
of the Charles O. Probst book, published by Bentley. A quick review of Chip Tuning Fundamentals may be helpful, too.
A second used "027" DME/ECU was purchased from Ebay, ($45.)
April 2005, and the rear of the glove box was modified to allow the second ECU to fit below the original ECU mounting position.
The second unit is being used to test other chip brands and revised chips from Mark D'Sylva, by quickly switching between
the two ECU's. NOTE - The second and third ECU's are fitted with ground straps, attached to the original
ECU located in its normal mounted position, at the top of the glove compartment. Do not swap cables
on ECU's when they are not properly grounded!
NOTE - The screws in the ECU look like Phillips
head #2, but they are really POZIDRIV #2, which is different. A Phillips will work, but be careful as the Phillips can rotate
out of the screw head and damage it.
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| Inside the DME/ECU |
Open the top of the DME/ECU (see the position of the mounting tabs)
and swing it open like a book, which is how it's positioned above. There is a rubber cone shaped spacer, that you have to
remove off of its grooved plastic pin, then you can swing the circuit board up and to the right, as it hinges on the connecting
wires. You can see the chip socket with its factory chip still installed. Remove the chip carefully and replace with the new
chip of your choice, being very careful not to bend the chip's pins as you place them in the socket.
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| Close-up of factory chip in its socket |
This close-up of the chip socket shows that it is labeled as "S712"
on the circuit board. It is a 24-pin chip socket. The chip has a detent or notch on one end to identify proper position in
the socket, which also has a detent or notch, or a picture of one on the circuit board next to the chip socket. Make sure
you position the chip correctly.
Easiest way to insert the chip is to line-up all the pins on one
side and start them into the socket holes, about 1/8 of an inch. Then, while maintaining pressure on the chip, move it toward
the socket holes that already have the chip pins partially inserted and line-up the pins with the socket holes on the other
side. Once aligned, lower that side down toward the socket holes being careful to insure that all pins are entering the sockets
and not bending. When all the pins have started into their respective sockets, slowly push the chip down and seat all pins
in their sockets.
There have been many reports about ECU problems associated with
failed circuit trace and power transistor solder connections, mostly on the later 535 and M5 ECUs, but I haven't seen any
"027" ECUs with this problem. However, while it's open, it's a good idea to take some time to look at yours for such potential
problems.
Close up the unit and reinstall it in the glove box. Follow what
ever instructions came with the chip and enjoy.
What level of performance improvement are you likely to obtain?
Well, I have been testing the Mark D'Sylva E.A.T. chip since early February of this year (2005), along with several other
brand performance chips and this is what I experienced:
- Clearly apparent increase in horsepower starting above 3,200
to 4000 rpm, depending on which brand chip is involved.
- Increase in redline to approximately 5300 rpm, over stock 4750
rpm gives additional speed in gears, with all chips tested.
- Excellent performance increase for the dollars spent.
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Copy of 3/31/05 State emissions tests (below) shows
that the E.A.T. chip (installed at time of tests) had no adverse effect on Virginia emissions test parameters.
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April 23, 2005 update
- The timing belt was found to be retarded by one tooth (see Maintenance Tips Pg. 1) and after correction with a new belt installation, performance was further
improved. Additionally, the Fuel Pressure Regulator was found to be faulty, creating an intermittent/random engine power loss
during full throttle operation. Another used "027" DME/ECU unit was purchased through Ebay, for installation of other
brand performance chips, for testing against each other. This ECU cost $19.99!
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May 25, 2005 update
- A used Dinan 528e chip (D900-2711) was purchased and I have completed 300+ miles of testing with it. This particular
Dinan chip is very peaky, compared to the D'Sylva E.A.T. chip. The Dinan doesn't seem to have much below 4k RPM and then it
comes to life rather abruptly. The D'Sylva chip starts delivering increased power about 3200 RPM and continues to increase
power right up to the rev limit. Its power band is much broader, where most of our driving is done.
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July 30, 2005 Update
- A used Jim Conforti 528e (027-000) Turner Motorsport Performance Chip was received, on loan from a BMW friend. Its
performance is much like the E.A.T. chip, but a little weaker at mid-rpm, while feeling a bit stronger as maximum rpm is reached.
This Conforti has a broader band of top end power, unlike the Dinan with its very narrow power band. Still, the E.A.T.
chip offers more power at mid-rpm where most of our driving is done. It is the best of the three, given its good mid-rpm power,
in my opinion.
All tests were run on the same two country roads near the
Shenandoah River, that I've traveled for over 22 years, testing suspension setups, tires, lighting, etc. Test sections
were three miles each way, with each chip involved by simply pulling over, shuting off the engine, swapping the ECU cable
between units placed in the bottom of the glove compartment, restarting and running the section roundtrip with that ECU/chip
combination. Swapping ECU's took about 10 seconds, once I got a feel for it. A minimum of six rountrip runs were made during
each test session and a total of 75 runs were made over a period of 4 months. The chips were also moved between the three
different ECU's, but no difference was noted, except during their startup and learning period of about 20 seconds. Some fuel
mileage checks were made, but are not considered typical due to the "pushed" driving during these tests.
Lastly, several cruise control runs were made
using a long, moderatly steep grade road, that can not be completed in 5th gear at 55 mph with the stock ECU. Only the
E.A.T. chip with its better mid-rpm power was able to make the grade via cruise control. The other chips could not pull
the grade, just as the stock chip couldn't. Another benefit of the E.A.T. chip.
August 14, 2005
Update - To help quantify the power increase for you, with an example easily understood, I would indicate
that an additional person in the car (~175lbs) on this up hill grade, results in the vehicle just barely starting to slow
down as it reaches the top. With the stock chip and an additional person onboard, downshifting to 4th gear would have been
necessary after the first third of the way up the hill, in order to maintain velocity. An earlier downshift is necessary,
if the air conditioning is running... also necessary with the E.A.T. chip with an additional person and the air running, requires
a downshift at the half-way point to maintain velocity.
November 7, 2005 Update - A used 1988 528e (known as the Super eta) Tachometer face plate was
installed to have the Tach register the true redline of the E.A.T. chip. Pushing the needle well into the red of the original
Tach face 4750 RPM redline, to the new 5200 RPM redline is something I couldn't do. Too many years of racing expensive engines
where exceeding the redline can result in serious engine damage.
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| 1988 Super "eta" Tachometer face plate with higher 5200 RPM redline. |
April 17, 2007 Update -
The 528e had her last Virginia emissions inspection today, as she'll be 25 years old when the next registration renewal is
due and will not be required to have an emissions inspection. It's interesting to note that this last inspection was so clean,
that the equipment was checked and tests run again. Not the first time this has happened, but at 25 years old, with the original
catalytic converter still in use and a non-BMW ECU/DME chip installed (E.A.T.) it shows what the longevity of a 528e can be,
given proper longterm care and consistant maintenance. The numbers and her performance says it all.
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| Copy of emmisions test results with E.A.T. chip installed. |
Major Engine Modifications -
If you want to make major engine performance modifications,
I strongly suggest that you consult the folks at Metric Mechanic, who specialize in providing high performance BMW engines and drive trains.
I have driven an E28 (528e) with one of their M20 "Sport i Engine" configurations, delivering 205 HP and it is a very nice
configuration. Metric Mechanic has a great reputation and it certainly beats running around and trying to find an experienced
local BMW engine builder to do the same thing. I am not knocking my "e to i" friends, but their time and money produced less
powerful engines, with some things still not fully sorted, compared to the MM engine I experienced.
The best info on the subject I've found is on Fred Kim's strictlyeta web page, dealing with his work on his E30. A good resource.
HOME
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Rod's autos and racing in the earlier years.
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