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Need to replace your front or rear brakes? This page gives you information on how to and the tools you will need to do
it.
What you will need:
Wrenches
Jack
Jack stands
Wire brush
Screwdriver or pry bar
Pliers or vise grips
Hammer
Large C-clamp
High-temperature lubricant
Latex Gloves
New brake pads
Before You Start:
Follow these instructions carefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin. Gather together
all of your tools and supplies before you begin.
Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don't have to hurry.
Remember
that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate
repair manual.
Safety is important whenever you're working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and
hazardous materials.
Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise either your safety or the performance
of your vehicle.
Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while
you work.
Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass.
Do one wheel at a time so you can use
the other wheel as a reference in case you get confused.
Check for any fluid leaks or cracked brake lines. Replace them
as necessary.
CAUTION!!! Brake linings contain asbestos. Avoid creating or breathing dust when changing linings or cleaning parts.
Use water to wash down the brakes before starting and wear gloves to avoid prolonged contact with your skin.
Step One:
Remove about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder and put it into a sealed container. Dispose of
it properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid; always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container.
Brake fluid will eat paint so do not get it on your vehicles finish. If you do, wash it off (brake fluid is water soluble)
with plenty of water.
Using a lug wrench, crack the wheel lugs loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely.
Jack one side of the vehicle up and support it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite side. Remove the lugs and take
the wheels off.
To remove the calipers:
Floating Caliper Type:
Remove the two caliper guide pins or bolts. Look at the locations and positions of any bushings
or guides so they can be reinstalled properly.
Rock the caliper back and forth to push the piston back enough to slide
the caliper off.
Remove the caliper. Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper.
Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, you will notice brake fluid squiting out of the brake master
cylinder and usually on to the fender of your car.You can now make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. :)
Sliding Caliper Type:
A support key or retaining clip holds the caliper to the caliper bridge. Remove the retaining
bolt or screw holding the key and drive the key out with a suitable tool. Note the position of any springs or clips before
you remove them. The retainers will simply lift off. Note the position of the retainers before you remove them. Remove the
caliper.
Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady.
If you did not remove half the brake fluid, you will notice brake fluid squiting out of the brake master cylinder and usually
on to the fender of your car.You can now make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. :)
Fixed Caliper Type:
Remove the caliper mounting bolts only if the pads won't come out the back of the caliper. Push
back the piston before removing the old pads. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, you will notice brake fluid squiting
out of the brake master cylinder and usually on to the fender of your car.You can now make an appointment to have your vehicle
repainted. :)
Check the rotor for scores, rusting or pitting. It is recommended that the rotors be resurfaced to remove
any imperfections and true up the braking surface to prevent brake pulsations.
Remove any pins or retainers (push pads
back and pull them out. Remove the pads from the calipers
Sliding Caliper:
Separate the pads from the caliper. The inner pad must be clipped to the piston. The outer pad may be
pinned, clipped or pressed tightly on the caliper. Some pads may remain on the adapter or anchor when the caliper is removed.
Clean
the caliper mounting surfaces with a wire brush and remove all the rust and dirt. The sliding surfaces must be as clean as
possible for proper brake operation. Wet down the area with water to prevent dust. Allow partstodry.
Step Two:
Install
the new brake pads in the reverse order of removal. Make sure any shims, clips and anti-rattle springs are in place. Some
brake pads have ears that need to be crimped to the caliper when installed.
You can use a large pair of Channel locks or
a hammer to crimp the ears. If they can move, they will squeal. You can apply a high temperature, copper based grease to the
back of the pads to help prevent squealing and transfer heat from the pads. Do not get any grease on the pad material itself.
Replace the caliper on its mount and reinstall the guide pins, retainers or clips that you have removed.
Use some of
the high temperature, copper based grease to lubricate sliding surfaces. Some retaining keys need to be tapped into place
with a hammer.
Tighten all bolts being careful not to over tighten. Never use standard "hardware store" bolts. If you
have to replace hardware, get the proper parts from the auto parts store. Special high-tensile hardware are used exclusively
in this application.
Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid from a sealed container and bleed the brakes if required.
DIY: Drum Brakes
What you will need:
Wrenches
Jack
Jack stands
Brake spring pliers
Brake retainer tool
Screwdriver or pry bar
Pliers or vise grips
Hammer
Large chisel
White Lithium Grease
Latex Gloves
Dust mask
New brake shoes
Before You Start:
Follow these instructions carefully. Read and be sure you understand them before
you begin.
Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin.
Allow plenty of time to do the job so
you don't have to hurry.
Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your
specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual.
Safety is important whenever you're working around machinery.
Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials.
Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise
either your safety or the performance of your vehicle.
Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack
stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass.
Do
one wheel at a time so you can use the other wheel as a reference in case you get confused. Check for any fluid leaks or cracked
brake lines. Replace them as necessary.
CAUTION!!!Brake linings contain asbestos. Do not use compressed air or dry brush to clean brake parts. Many brake parts
contain asbestos fibers that, if inhaled, can cause serious injury. To clean brake parts, use water soaked rags or a suitable
vacuum cleaner to minimize airborne dust.
Removal:
Remove about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder and put it into a sealed container. Dispose of
it properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid; always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container.
Brake fluid will eat paint so do not get it on your vehicles finish. If you do, wash it off (brake fluid is water soluble)
with plenty of water.
Using a lug wrench, crack the wheel lugs loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely.
Jack one side of the vehicle up and support it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite side.
Remove the lugs
and take the wheels off.
To remove the brake drums:
Rear Wheel Drive:
Remove brake drum. Look at the wheel studs for a round clip. If they are there, use a wire cutters
or other suitable tool to remove them. You don't have to worry about breaking or losing them. They are there to keep the brake
drum from falling off while on the assembly line. They serve no purpose now. If brake lining is dragging on brake drum, back
off brake adjustment by rotating adjustment screw. If brake drum is rusted or corroded to axle flange and cannot be removed
readily, apply some rust penetrent and lightly tap axle flange to drum mounting surface with a suitable hammer.
Front Wheel Drive:
Remove bearing cap and wheel bearings. Slide drum off, backing off the adjustment if necessary.
See DIY:Wheel Bearings if you are not sure how to do this.
Some bearings are one-piece bearings in which case you
just slide the drum off.
Any time the brake drums are removed for brake service, the braking surface diameter should be
checked with a suitable brake drum micrometer at several points to determine if they are within the safe oversize limit stamped
on the brake drum outer surface. If the braking surface diameter exceeds specifications, the drum must be replaced. If the
braking surface diameter is within specifications, drums should be cleaned and inspected for cracks, scores, deep grooves,
taper, out of round and heat spotting. If drums are cracked or heat spotted, they must be replaced.
Minor scores should
be removed with sandpaper. Grooves and large scores can only be removed by machining with special equipment, as long as the
braking surface is within specifications stamped on brake drum outer surface. Any brake drum sufficiently out of round to
cause vehicle vibration or noise while braking or showing taper should also be machined, removing only enough stock to true
up the brake drum.
After a brake drum is machined, wipe the braking surface diameter with a denatured alcohol soaked cloth.
If one brake drum is machined, the other should also be machined to the same diameter to maintain equal braking forces. I
would recommend that the drums be resurfaced whenever you replace the shoes. If you do not plan on resurfacing the drums,
mark a wheel stud and put a matching mark on the drum so you can reinstall it in the same position it came off. Also mark
them left and right.
Type 1:
Using brake spring pliers or equivalent, remove primary and secondary shoe return springs.
Remove automatic adjuster cable from anchor plate and unhook from adjuster lever.
Remove adjuster cable, overload spring, cable guide and anchor plate.
Unhook adjuster lever spring from lever and remove spring and lever.
Remove shoe-to-shoe spring from secondary shoe web, then the primary shoe.
Spread shoes apart and remove parking brake strut and spring.
Using suitable tool, remove shoe retainers, then the springs and nails.
Disconnect parking brake cable from lever and remove brake shoes.
Remove parking brake lever from secondary shoe.
Clean dirt from brake drum, backing plate and all other components.
NOTE: In many cases the primary shoe material is
longer than the secondary shoe material. The longer shoe always goes towards the rear of the car and the short shoe towards
the front.
Type 2:
Disconnect parking brake cable from parking brake lever.
Using suitable pliers, remove brake shoe to anchor springs and hold-down springs.
Fully seat adjuster nut, then spread shoes apart and remove adjuster screw assembly.
Raise parking brake lever, then pull trailing shoe away from support to ease return spring tension and disengage spring
end from support. Remove trailing shoe.
Pull leading shoe away from support to ease return spring tension and disengage spring end from support.
Remove leading shoe.
Remove parking brake lever from trailing shoe.
Clean dirt from brake drum, support plate and all other components.
Type 3:
Using suitable pliers, remove adjuster lever spring.
Remove adjuster lever.
Turn automatic adjuster screw out to expand shoes past wheel cylinder boot.
Using suitable tool, remove hold-down springs.
Pull brake shoe assembly down and away from anchor plate.
Remove C-clip retaining parking brake lever to trailing brake shoe webbing.
Disassemble shoe assembly.
Clean dirt from brake drum, anchor plate and all other components.
Installation:
Type 1:
Lubricate parking brake lever fulcrum with suitable brake lube, then attach lever to secondary brake shoe. Ensure that
the lever operates smoothly.
Lightly lubricate backing plate shoe contact surfaces with suitable brake lube.
Connect parking brake lever to cable and slide secondary brake shoe into position.
Connect wheel cylinder link to brake shoe (if equipped).
Slide parking brake lever strut behind axle flange and into parking brake lever slot, then place parking brake anti-rattle
spring over strut.
Position primary brake shoe on backing plate and connect wheel cylinder link (if equipped) and parking brake strut.
Install anchor plate and position adjuster cable eye over anchor pin.
Install primary shoe return spring using brake spring pliers or equivalent.
Place protruding hole rim of cable guide in secondary shoe web hole, then holding guide in position, install secondary
shoe return spring through cable guide and secondary shoe. Install spring on anchor pin using brake spring pliers or equivalent.
NOTE: Ensure cable guide remains flat against secondary shoe web during and after return spring installation. Also ensure
secondary spring end overlaps primary spring end on anchor pin.
Using suitable pliers, squeeze spring ends around anchor pin until parallel. Install adjuster screw assembly between primary
and secondary brake shoes with star wheel on secondary shoe side.
NOTE: The left side adjuster assembly stud is stamped "L" and the right side is stamped "R". Be sure you don't mix them
up or your brakes will not self-adjust.
Install shoe-to-shoe spring, then position adjusting lever spring over pivot pin on shoe web.
Install adjusting lever under spring and over pivot pin, then slide lever slightly rearward.
Install nails, springs and retainers.
Thread adjuster cable over guide and hook end of overload spring in lever. Ensure eye of cable is pulled tight against
anchor and in a straight line with guide.
Install brake drum, tire and wheel assembly.
Adjust brakes.
If any hydraulic connections have been opened, bleed brake system.
Check master cylinder fluid level, and replenish as necessary.
Check brake pedal for proper feel and return.
Lower vehicle and road test. Do not severely apply brakes immediately after installation of new brake linings or permanent
damage may occur to linings, and/or brake drums may become scored. Brakes must be used moderately during first few hundred
miles of operation to ensure proper burnishing of linings.
Type 2:
Lightly lubricate support plate shoe contact surfaces with suitable brake lube. Position leading shoe return spring on
shoe, then while holding shoe away from support, engage return spring in support plate and swing shoe end into position under
anchor.
Install parking brake lever on trailing shoe.
Install trailing shoe return spring on shoe, then while holding shoe away from support, engage return spring in support
plate and swing shoe end into position under anchor.
Spread shoes apart and install adjuster screw assembly. Ensure forked end enters the leading shoe with curved tines facing
down.
Using a suitable pair of pliers, install hold-down springs and shoe to anchor springs.
Pull back parking brake cable return spring slightly to expose cable, then slide parking brake cable into parking brake
lever and release spring.
Install brake drum and bearings. Refer to individual car chapter for wheel bearing adjustment procedure.
Adjust brakes.
Install tire and wheel assembly.
If any hydraulic connections have been opened, bleed brake system.
Check master cylinder level, replenish as necessary.
Check brake pedal for proper feel and return.
Lower vehicle and road test. Do not severely apply brakes immediately after installation of new brake linings or permanent
damage may occur to linings and/or brake drums may become scored.
Brakes must be used moderately during first several hundred miles of operation to ensure proper burnishing of linings.
Type 3:
Lightly lubricate anchor plate shoe contact surfaces with suitable brake lube.
Assemble automatic adjuster screw assembly, return spring and shoe-to-shoe spring to brake shoe assembly.
Position lining assembly near anchor plate, then assemble parking brake lever to trailing shoe webbing. Secure with C-clip.
Install lining assembly onto anchor plate. When positioned, back off adjuster nut to seat brake shoe ends in wheel cylinder.
Install hold-down springs.
Position adjuster lever, then using suitable pliers, install adjuster lever spring.
Install brake drum and bearings.
Adjust brakes.
Install tire and wheel assembly.
If any hydraulic connections have been opened, bleed brake system.
Check master cylinder level, and replenish as necessary.
Check brake pedal for proper feel and return.
Lower vehicle and road test. Do not severely apply brakes immediately after installation of new brake linings or permanent
damage may occur to linings and/or brake drums may become scored. Brakes must be used moderately during first several hundred
miles of operation to ensure proper burnishing.
Brake Adjustment:
Remove rubber adjusting hole covers from brake supports.
NOTE: Some adjustment holes are in the backing plate and some are in the drum. Some are pre-cut and others need to be
opened. You will see a partially stamped cutout in either the drum or backing plate. To open the hole, use a hammer and chisel
to pop out the cutout. When you are done, be sure to install rubber covers to keep water and dirt from entering.
Release parking brake and back off cable adjustment to slacken cable.
Step on the brake five or six times to seat the shoes. Insert a narrow screwdriver into adjusting nut hole. Move screwdriver
handle downward on left side or upward on right side until wheels are locked.
Back off nut 10 clicks.
Adjust parking brake
This job will require a moderate skill level. If you do not feel comfortable doing this job yourself, then I would recommend
taking it to a qualified mechanic and have it done. It is not difficult to do, but getting springs and shoes into position
can be tricky. Sometimes you'll wish you had three hands while you do this. Be patient and take your time and it will come
together.
Start to finish, to do both sides, you can figure on about three hours to do the job. If you take the drums to
the parts store to be resurfaced before you start, they will probably be ready by the time you are done.
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